Our Salewa People Simon Gietl, together with the alpinists Davide Prandini and Martin Niederkofler, has completed the first ascent of KAIROS on the west face of Laverella di Fora. The roughly 250-metre line is graded IX- A2 and follows exceptionally compact limestone, offering very few opportunities for protection. The route features several demanding pitches graded X-, IX+/X- and IX+. Sparse protection adds another level of commitment to the climbing.
The three alpinists spent a total of four days establishing the route. The climbing proved both technically and mentally demanding, with several falls of nearly 15 metres. From the outset, the team’s goal was to establish the most direct line possible through this striking wall – using traditional protection only and without placing bolts.
After completing the first ascent, Gietl set himself another goal: to redpoint every pitch of the route in a single day without falling. After carefully studying each pitch and training specifically on the wall, he achieved his goal on August 13, belayed by Magdalena Mittersteiner.
Gietl describes his time on the wall as particularly intense:
“It was a special and incredibly intense time that I was able to share with friends in this peaceful place. I’m very proud and grateful to have established this first ascent in this style. To put it simply: 99 percent motivation wouldn’t have been enough to open this line.”
“KAIROS” is a demanding, traditionally protected route on an exceptional limestone wall. With several hard pitches, sections of very sparse protection and a deliberate commitment to climbing without bolts, the route has a distinctly alpine character.
Simon Gietl wishes everyone who takes on “KAIROS” a successful and rewarding climb!
