How to choose mountaineering boots

How to choose mountaineering boots

In the mountains, moving through remote areas and wild and isolated locations, your footwear is perhaps your single most important piece of gear. But which boots are best for your trip? Make sure you choose the right model to keep your feet dry, comfortable and at the right temperature during your adventures in alpine terrain.

1. How to choose mountain boots?

What should you consider when selecting a boot? First up, do your research. Make sure you understand the kind of terrain and climate conditions and weather to expect in the region you’re visiting for the time of year.

What will the terrain be like? Are we talking snow, ice and mixed terrain? Or rock, mud and scree?
How long will you be hiking for?
Will you be heading cross-country over loose terrain, or mainly on paths and trails?
Will you encounter warmer climate conditions?
Do you expect rain, deep snow or storms?
Will you be ice climbing in steep waterfall ice?
How heavy will your backpack be?
What kind of pace do you plan to move at?

2. What types of mountaineering boots are there?

Different manufacturers have different ways of categorising their footwear, but ultimately there are two main types of mountaineering boots:

  • Three-season boots
  • Insulated boots

Three-season boots

Three-season boots are suitable for spring, summer and autumn, but not winter. They might have a leather, synthetic, or hybrid upper and come in various styles. These can range from lightweight boots for warmer, dryer, summer-like conditions to models that offer better water resistance and warmth for higher altitudes, but which weigh more.

Three-season boots can come with fully-rigid soles or more flexible soles, and offer varying degrees of ankle support. They might have a waterproof, breathable membrane, but they generally have no insulating layer. Their uppers are usually treated with a durable water repellent (DWR) finish that can be periodically refreshed.

Pros:

  • Super-comfortable, comfortable to walk in and quick to break in
  • Versatile – also suitable for hiking, scrambling and even climbing
  • Less prone to overheating in warm, midsummer conditions
  • Lightweight and agile – they often perform better on rock

Cons:

  • Three-season boots might not be warm enough at higher altitudes in very wet conditions or extreme cold weather
  • Lighter, more flexible boots are less suitable for use with crampons

Insulated boots

Insulated mountaineering boots are designed specifically for use in colder conditions and have a multi-layered boot design construction.

Pros:

  • Insulation (the warmest models have an insulated, removable inner boot)
  • Suitable for more extreme use
  • Generally compatible with full or semi-automatic crampons

Cons:

  • Too warm for summer, alpine use
  • Stiffer crampon-compatible soles are less comfortable to hike in

Your first decision is how much warmth you need, i.e. do you need a fully insulated boot? If you’re planning to climb in lower temperatures, then an insulated, flexible boot could be a better choice.