How to choose a climbing rope

1. How to choose the right climbing or mountaineering rope?

When choosing a climbing rope there are five main considerations to take into account:

• Climbing rope type: Do you need a single, half, twin or static rope?

• Climbing rope length: How long does your rope need to be?

• Climbing rope diameter: How thick should your rope be?

• Special features: When do you need a treated rope? What about special markings

• Safety standards: What do all the norms and standards mean?

2. What type of rope do you use for climbing?

Climbing rope type:

There are three different types of dynamic climbing ropes.

Single ropes

• Single ropes are the most common type of climbing rope. The term ‘single’ refers to the fact that these rope are designed to be used on their own.

• Single ropes are for sport climbing, alpine climbing, trad climbing, mountaineering and big-wall climbing and top roping.

• Single ropes come in a range of different lengths and diameters that cover a range of different applications.

• Single ropes are labelled with a number 1 in a circle.

Half ropes

• Half ropes are best trad for climbing on zig-zagging routes, longer multi pitch routes, mountaineering and ice climbing.

• Half ropes, sometimes also called double ropes, are designed to be used as a pair.

• Climbing with half ropes involves using two ropes at the same time. One is clipped to protection on the left and the other to protection on the right. This lets rope run straight, reducing rope drag, especially where protection points are spread out.

• Unlike twin ropes, half ropes do not need to be clipped together into each bolt or piece of protection.

• Climbing with a pair of half ropes means you need a belay device that can manage two ropes at the same time.

• Half ropes are labelled with a ½ symbol in a circle.

Advantages:

• Half ropes can be used as a single rope to bring up a second. This is particularly relevant when climbing as a three. It means you can bring up two seconds.

• Climbing with two half ropes means that when abseiling, you can knot them together to rappel twice as far as you can with a single rope.

• Half-rope technique provides additional redundancy – in the event that one rope gets damaged by a sharp edge, rocks or ice.

Disadvantages:

• Using half ropes requires greater skill with rope management – both climbing and belaying.

• Climbing with two half ropes means that when abseiling, you can knot them together to rappel twice as far as you can with a single rope.

• Half ropes are designed and tested only for use as a matching pair.

Twin ropes

• Twin ropes are best for trad climbing on straight (i.e. not zig-zagging) multi-pitch rock routes, alpine climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing.

• Like half ropes, twin ropes are always used as a pair. However, with twin ropes, you clip both ropes through each bolt or piece of protection, just like you would with a single rope.

• Twin ropes generally have a lighter weight and a thinner diameter.

• Again like half rope technique, twin rope technique offers greater safety reserves due to increased redundancy afforded by using two ropes. Twin ropes are particularly suited to alpine climbing, ice and mixed climbing. And they also allow you to abseil twice as far as a single rope.

• Twin ropes are designed and tested only for use as a matching pair.

• Twin ropes are labelled with an infinity symbol (∞).

Some ropes have a triple certification, i.e. they are rated as single, half and twin ropes. This allows you to use them with all three climbing techniques. Remember though: it’s important to only use a rope for the purpose it was designed and tested to be used for.

Static ropes

• Static ropes have a substantially lower working elongation than dynamic ropes. In practice, this means they still stretch when loaded, but only by a very small amount.

• Static ropes are your go-to ropes for rescue work, climbing and descending fixed lines and hauling loads. They also excel in situations such as lowering an injured climber or building top rope anchors, where you don’t want rope stretch.

• Important: it’s not recommended to use a static rope for top roping and especially not for lead climbing. For sport climbing, dynamic elongation, i.e. rope stretch, is an important safety factor.