Some lines reveal themselves metre by metre, as you follow the rock and venture into the unknown. In the Verdon, Salewa People athlete Leo Gheza embraced that spirit of exploration with Fragili Equilibri: a 220-metre route graded up to 8b+, opened from the ground up together with Luca Ducoli.
Sometimes, all it takes is a glance at a rock face to spot the potential for a new route. For Leo Gheza, that moment came in September 2025, while taking his mountain guide exams in the Verdon. Between climbs, he began looking beyond the established routes, searching for unclimbed sections and imagining new possibilities. A few months later, that idea became Fragili Equilibri: a 220-metre route on the Estellié face, opened from the ground up in November 2025 with Luca Ducoli, with Daniele LoRusso also contributing. The route reaches a maximum grade of 8b+.
«I had the chance to explore different sectors and look around for possible lines. Finding a section of rock that was still unclimbed was already on my mind. »
The Verdon is one of the great historic destinations in climbing, renowned for its dramatic limestone walls and rich climbing heritage. Yet there are still opportunities to discover new lines. Leo arrived with several options in mind, ready to adapt his plans depending on what he found.
«Leaving our mark here is priceless. The Verdon is legendary among climbers, with such a rich history. Expectations were high, and the place certainly lived up to them. It’s a historic area, and most of the best walls are already packed with routes. Even so, the north-facing side still offers plenty of potential. I had a Plan A, B and C. I knew the 2025 guidebook was up to date, but there was still a chance of finding brand-new routes that hadn’t been documented. And that’s exactly what happened.».
For Leo, the appeal of opening a route from the ground up lies in the uncertainty. The line takes shape as you climb, following the natural features of the rock and adapting to whatever comes next. Every move brings you closer to discovering what lies above.
« I love climbing, but I love adventure too. Opening routes from the ground up brings those two passions together. What intrigues me most is not knowing what I’ll find just a few metres higher ».
Fragili Equilibri comprises seven pitches, combining technical sequences with more physically demanding climbing. Small pockets, edges and tufas mark the way up a gently overhanging wall, where precision, balance and adaptability are key.
«It’s turned out to be a fantastic route, not only because of the technical challenge but also because of the quality of the climbing. It’s exciting and varied, with a consistent, slight overhang. You move from small holds and pockets to edges and more physical sequences on the tufas. It offers a great variety of climbing.».
The name Fragili Equilibri (Fragile Balance) comes from the crux pitch, a highly technical 8b+. “While working out the moves, both me and Iris broke a few footholds that were quite important, though not essential. Every time one broke, we had to figure out a different way through the sequence. The climbing is very face-on, and you’re constantly trying to find your balance on footholds that aren’t exactly reliable.”
The first ascent also came with challenging weather. Heavy rain and wind gusts of up to 70 km/h interrupted the days on the wall, with only brief windows of more favourable conditions. Despite the weather warnings, the rock remained dry, allowing the team to make the most of every opportunity to climb.
During the trip, Leo also tested Salewa’s Spring/Summer 2027 climbing collection in its natural environment, wearing the pieces throughout his climbing sessions and while working on the new route.
For Leo, a route is about more than its grade or the difficulty of its hardest moves. It is also about the experience of climbing it: finding your rhythm on the rock, working through the sequences and discovering a line of your own. That is what he hopes future climbers will experience when they take on Fragili Equilibri.
And there are already more lines on the horizon. Opening a new route is not an end point, but part of a much longer journey of exploration. There is always another possibility waiting to be discovered.
«I have so many dreams. I’d need two lifetimes to try to make them all come true!»
