Vittorio "Vitto" Messini has a lively life. Born in Florence, he has lived in East Tyrol since he was ten. He started walking in the mountains with his parents, then he discovered climbing and mountaineering with his friends. His university studies in geology have further fueled his passion for the mountains. Vitto is a mountain guide and ski instructor, and is also part of the mountain rescue service. Since autumn 2017 he is also a member of the training team of the Austrian Alpine Guides Association and ski instructors. Together with Matthias Wurzer, Silvester Wolsegger and Bergsport Osttirol, he launched the project "Eispark Osttirol", Austria's largest artificial ice wall. In January 2017 Vitto, together with Martin Glantschnig and Stefan Lieb, published the first ice climbing guide of East Tyrol and Upper Carinthia, with more than 250 ice and mixed lines.

PROJECTS

  
2018

"Alles im Kasten" is the name of the new route that Salewa athlete Simon Gietl and Vitto Messini recently opened at Mittlerer Kasten in the Hohe Tauern.

The weather made it anything but easy for Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini to implement their North3 project.

The North3 Project

 

2017 

First ascent of "Freizeitstress" (Lienz Dolomites) and "Wunwetter" (Hohe Tauern), with Lukas Pichler and Matthias Wurzer;

Opening of the new "Shiva's Ice" route on Shivling (6543m) in the Himalayas;

Winter ascent of the three northern walls of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo with Simon Gietl, in 5h45min;

Exploratory ice climbing and mixed climbing in Canada with Matthias Wurzer.

 

2016  

First ascent of "Südwandwächter" at the Großglockner with Matthias Wurzer;

"Erbe der Väter" - first ascent at the Grande di Lavaredo;

"Eternal Flame" on the Towers of Trango, in Pakistan; Ascent of small and big Trango with Johannes Steidl;

First ascent of "Hobby Strahler" on the north face of Kristallwand (Hohe Tauern) with Simon Gietl and Isidor Poppeller;

Exploratory ice climbing and mixed climbing in Canada with Matthias Wurzer.

 

2015  

First ascent of "Wirtschaftskrise" and "Iseltaler Kost" (Lienz Dolomites), with Lukas Pichler and Matthias Wurzer;

On sight ascent of "Divine Providence" on Mont Blanc, with Johannes Steidl;

Exploratory ice climbing and mixed climbing in Canada with Matthias Wurzer;

10 new ice and mixed routes in East Tyrol and Salzburg.

FAVORITE PLACE

One word: Dolomites.

FAVORITE BOOK

“Die großen Wände” by Reinhold Messner. Simon found the book at his parents’ place some years ago and keeps reading it every now and then. To flick through the last pages has been the start of many climbs.

BIGGEST FEAR

Simon says that it’s the fear of his own courage, the fear of not being able to recognize what are the limits you shouldn’t try to overcome.

ACTIVITIES PRACTICED

Vitto finds his inspiration and motivation in every mountain sport. Whether it's sports climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing or ski touring, he is out and about all year round. He likes to explore far-flung countries, but above all his heart beats for the native mountains of East Tyrol. In recent years, discovering new rock and ice routes has become his greatest passion: putting his signature on the mountains is simply something special.

HOBBIES

Until recently, Vitto's life has been focused on climbing, both as a job and as a hobby. Now that he has a partner and a son his priorities have not changed, but they have had to be reorganized a bit. In addition to his family, he also likes to spend time kayaking, which he discovered in Florence on the Arno, nordic-skiing and cycling.

VITTORIO MESSINI

NATIONALITY: ITALIAN
DATE OF BIRTH: 24.06.1988
ACTIVITIES: SKI MOUNTAINEERING, ALPINE MOUNTAINEERING; ALPINE CLIMBING

SHIVA'S ICE

SHIVA'S ICE

Climbing up snow and ice has its own sound, its own rhythm. You swing your tool, feeling the pick bite into the ice, swing again, and breathe.

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NORTH3 STORY

NORTH3 STORY

Sometimes it happens that exceptional things start in a simple, almost trivial way. With a question that you could listen to at the playground, for example.

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SPECIAL PROJECTS