SIMON MESSNER

NATIONALITY: ITALIAN
DATE OF BIRTH: 11.08.1990
ACTIVITY: CLASSIC MOUNTAINEERING IN ALL IT'S FORMS

BIO


Simon grew up in Merano and on the Juval - a hill at the entrance to the Val Senales in South Tyrol. As a child he travelled with his family to distant countries: India, Nepal, Mongolia, Pakistan, Yemen, Algeria, Libya, Uganda, Antarctica... For Simon Messner, one of his most memorable childhood moments was crossing the Ténéré desert in the central Sahara with his father at the age of 13. Perhaps it was these early experiences that stimulated his passion for exploration and discovery.

Simon considers himself a laggard. He started climbing and mountaineering at the age of 16. As he says today, this can be attributed to his family environment growing up. "The theme of the mountain has always been very present in our family. Wandering the mountains was almost a daily thing for me, therefore it was too natural to be interesting for me," he recalls. But the situation changed quickly when he discovered mountaineering and climbing for himself. Up to now he has been able to repeat many rock and ice routes and make his first ascents in Oman, Jordan, the Alps and his home mountains, the Dolomites. The style (i.e. the way the route is open) is as important to him as climbing itself. He leaves as little material as possible in the mountains and prefers to discover routes and areas off the beaten path. For Simon, this is one of the keys to a successful tour. "It's not about how many climbs you complete, or how fast you are, it's the experiences that will stay with you, and what could be more sustainable than trying to preserve the mountain experiences for future generations?"

Activities practiced:
Although Simon comes from long family history of mountaineering, he only started climbing when he was 16 years old. He practices Alpine climbing and traditional mountaineering in the summertime, and in the winter, he turns to ice climbing, winter mountaineering and ski touring. In the transition seasons, he trains by doing sport climbing and trail and alpine running.

Hobbies:
Together with his father, Simon has chosen to invest his time and energy into telling mountain stories through film. "The most powerful stories I know involve encounters with the wilderness and the mountains. We want to bring these stories back to life and tell them how they really happened,. So, in order to do this, we shoot our films in the mountains themselves. It's not always easy and doesn't come without its risks, but it guarantees authenticity!"

Besides filming and climbing, the other essential ingredient in Simon Messner's life: Coffee!

Favorite place:
Juval in the Vinschgau Valley and the Dolomites.

Favorite book:
Rather than a book, it's more like a favorite topic: General Alpine history, with all its highs and lows. It tells us of great pioneering feats, stories and experiences, and mountaineering expertise which has been accumulated through the generations.

PROJECTS


  
2019 

First ascent of "Ice Age" with Babsi Vigl, Punta del Pin, the Dolomites

First ascent of the Black Tooth (6,712m) with Martin Sieberer in the Baltoro region of Pakistan

First ascent of the Geshot Peak or Toshe III (6,200m), southwest of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan. Solo and in one day

2018 

First ascent of the "Hang-over" icefall, Bletterbachschlucht, on sight with Roland Marth

First ascent of "Dl´ Zübr Interrail", Heiligkreuzkofel, on sight with Philipp Prünster

First ascent of "Welcome to the Jungle", Sesto Dolomites. Clean and on sight

First ascent of "Narrenfreiheit", Sesto Dolomites. 1 piton blocked, on sight

2017  

First ascent of the north face of Brunnenkogel with Philipp Brugger

First ascent of the "Left-hand variant to the central pillar", Heiligkreuzkofel. On sight with Berni Ertl

First ascent of "Adieu Konni" with Dario Haselwarter, Geierkopf north face

2016  

First ascent "Walk the Line", north face of the Zwölferkogel, solo and on sight

First ascent of two routes and a variant through the so-called "Kirchdach" of the Sass Rigais (Geisler mountains) with Philipp Prünster

New route on the north face of the Agner (left of the classic Iori)

First ascent of the north face of the Lüsener Fernerkogel, with Philipp Brugger