Is it possible to become a great alpinist just by chance? Can a story change someone’s life?
Simon’s life gives some good hints to find an answer for and to these questions. Born and raised in Luttach, in Ahrntal, he has always worked first as a farmer in his family’s “bauern hof”/farmhouse, then as a carpenter. His first contact with climbing was absolutely by chance; more or less fifteen years ago he was hitchhiking between Toblach and Bruneck, and an alpinist gave him a ride. It is from this time; the tales and stories of mountains and rock he heard that gave him a reason for going up into the mountains.
Time has passed, and now Simon Gietl spends as much time as he can in the mountains, aiming to reimagine alpine climbing and mountaineering.

RESULTS

  
2019

An expedition to the Karakorum, and its aim is the north face of Latok, a ridge which nobody has climbed for forty years.

First ascent of the “Kalipe” mixed tour on the north face of the peitlerkofel.

New mixed oute “Räuber Hotzenplotz

Tre Cime solo winter link-up

 

2018

 "Alles im Kasten" is the name of the new route that Salewa athlete Simon Gietl and Vitto Messini recently opened at Mittlerer Kasten in the Hohe Tauern.

On 18 October 2018, Simon Gietl free soloed the Dolomites classic Via Lacedelli on the south-west face of Cima Scotoni. 

"Can you hear me?" Simon Gietl murmurs into the wind, on the peak of Cima Scotoni, right after opening a new route.

The weather made it anything but easy for Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini to implement their North3 project.

The North3 Project

Rastentalfall at Rein in Taufers: “Mit Freundlichen Grüßen”, in other words “Sincerely yours”.

 

2017 

Opened new route Shiva's Ice, Mount Shivling (6543m), India. A new mixed route up the Northeast face of Mount Shivling with Vittorio Messini.

1st ascent of Stigmata, Heiligkreuzkofe (2907m), Italy with Andrea Oberbacher. A steep unclimbed face in the Dolomites.

1st Winter traverse of Tre Cime with Michi Wohleben. A traverse including the three main summits of Tre Cime di Lavaredo.

 

2016  

Awarded Mountaineer of the year in Italy.

1st ascent of Oblivion Endstand; Piz d’Ander (3204m), Italy. A steep unclimbed face in the Dolomites.

 

2015  

1st ascent of Erbe der Väter; Cima Gande (2999m), Italy – New route at Cima Grande with Andrea Oberbacher.

1st ascent of Odysee at the Eiger; Eiger (3967m), Switzerland - The most difficult Big Wall route on the Eiger Northface with Robert Jasper, Roger Schäli.

2nd ascent of Cruz Del Sur; La esfinge (5325m), Peru. A remote peak in Andes Mountains.

"I BELONG TO THE DOLOMITES, AND I PLAY MY GAME ON THE MOUNTAINS OF THE ENTIRE WORLD. THE DOLOMITES ARE MY HERITAGE, MY BACKYARD, BUT MOST OF ALL THE PLACE WHERE I SHAPE MY VISION FOR THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING."

Simon Gietl

HERITAGE OF OUR FATHERS

HERITAGE OF OUR FATHERS

It’s quiet. Midweek at the end of June. It’s the kind of day you see only beams of bright sunlight that reveal the Dolomites for what they really are.

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OBLIVION

OBLIVION

Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher establish impressive new route on previously unclimbed Dolomite face.

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SPECIAL PROJECTS

FAVORITE PLACE

One word: Dolomites.

FAVORITE BOOK

“Die großen Wände” by Reinhold Messner. Simon found the book at his parents’ place some years ago and keeps reading it every now and then. To flick through the last pages has been the start of many climbs.

BIGGEST FEAR

Simon says that it’s the fear of his own courage, the fear of not being able to recognize what are the limits you shouldn’t try to overcome.

ACTIVITIES PRACTICED

Simon’s life revolves around the idea of discovering, defining, and climbing new routes; modern and difficult with traditional protection. He likes to travel and to explore new and unexpected places, but the Dolomites are still his inspiration and favorite playground.
He is an alpinist at the very core. Nevertheless, he doesn’t disdain of running, bicycling and ski touring as a fun way of training but also just as a clean way to reach the mountains.

HOBBIES

Simon really likes to go for walks with his wife and children. His family holds a very high importance to him; so he tries to spend as much together as possible. Cooking together or playing in the backyard: every moment shared is an important one. For Simon it is fascinating to admire how fast the children grow up: yesterday they could not walk and today they run into the women’s dressing room at the local bouldering hall.

SIMON GIETL

NATIONALITY: ITALIAN
DATE OF BIRTH: 05/11/1984
ACTIVITY: ALPINE CLIMBING

SHIVA'S ICE

SHIVA'S ICE

Climbing up snow and ice has its own sound, its own rhythm. You swing your tool, feeling the pick bite into the ice, swing again, and breathe.

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STIGMATA

STIGMATA

Val Badia: you’ll never forget the first time you see it. It’s one of those landscapes that when you talk about it to someone who’s never been there they’ll think you’re making it up.

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LATOK: HEADING BACK

LATOK: HEADING BACK

To have ambitious dreams and make them come true is difficult.
But there is something even more difficult: to have ambitious dreams and not make them come true.

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NORTH3 STORY

NORTH3 STORY

Sometimes it happens that exceptional things start in a simple, almost trivial way. With a question that you could listen to at the playground, for example.

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ORCA

ORCA

Simon and Manuel Gietl’s trad project on Durrerspitze: the story of a brotherly relationship, which has grown on the rocks

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SIMON GIETL'S SELECTION

TRE CIME SOLO WINTER LINK-UP

TRE CIME SOLO WINTER LINK-UP

The decision to attempt a solo winter link-up of the Tre Cime set me off on an intense journey – a unique journey to my inner emotional core.

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CAN YOU HEAR ME?

CAN YOU HEAR ME?

"Can you hear me?" Simon Gietl murmurs into the wind, on the peak of Cima Scotoni. There is nobody, nobody answers.

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