SIMON MESSNER

NATIONALITY: ITALIAN
DATE OF BIRTH: 08.11.1990
ACTIVITY: CLASSIC MOUNTAINEERING IN ALL IT'S FORMS

BIO


Simon grew up in Merano and on the Juval - a hill at the entrance to the Val Senales in South Tyrol. As a child he travelled with his family to distant countries: India, Nepal, Mongolia, Pakistan, Yemen, Algeria, Libya, Uganda, Antarctica... Perhaps it was these experiences that stimulated his passion for exploration and discovery. After a detour into the micro-world of molecular biology, Simon is now back home in the macro-world of mountains.

Simon considers himself a laggard. He started climbing and mountaineering at the age of 16. Perhaps - as he says today - this can be attributed to his family environment: "The theme of the mountain has always been very present in our family. It was almost a daily life and therefore too natural to be interesting for me," he recalls. But the situation changed quickly when he discovered mountaineering and climbing for himself. Up to now he has been able to repeat many rock and ice routes and make his first ascents in Oman, Jordan, the Alps and his home mountains, the Dolomites. The style, i.e. the way the route is open, is at least as important to him as climbing itself: using and leaving as little material as possible in the mountains is the hallmark of a successful route.

"It's not just the numbers or times of a climb, it's the overall experience that remains. And what could be more sustainable than trying to preserve exactly this overall experience and therefore the potential of the mountain experience for future generations?"

Activities practiced:
Simon considers himself a laggard: although he comes from a family with a strong mountaineering tradition, he only started climbing when he was 16 years old. But when he rediscovered the mountains by himself, things changed: he repeated and opened routes of rock and ice in Oman, Jordan, the Alps and his home mountains, the Dolomites. Style counts as much as climbing itself: using and leaving as little material as possible.

Hobbies:
Together with his father, Simon has chosen to invest some time and energy in telling mountain stories in the form of movies, because mountaineering also has a cultural dimension, and the narrative is as important as the action itself. That, and coffee.

Favorite place:
Juval in Val Venosta. The Dolomites probably follow immediately afterwards. In reality, it is not the place itself that counts, but the moments you experience there.

Favorite book:
More than a book, a thread: Alpine history in general, with all its ups and downs. It is full of impressive stories and descriptions, the know-how of mountaineering collected from generation to generation. Having to choose a specific book, "Selig, wer in Träumen stirbt" (Blessed is he who dies in dreams), written by Robert Steiner after his accident on the Grandes Jorasses.

Biggest fear:
It may seem strange, but it's the height.

PROJECTS


  
2018 

First ascent of the "Hang-over" icefall, Bletterbachschlucht, on sight with Roland Marth

First ascent of "Dl´ Zübr Interrail", Heiligkreuzkofel, on sight with Philipp Prünster

First ascent of "Welcome to the Jungle", Sesto Dolomites. Clean and on sight

First ascent of "Narrenfreiheit", Sesto Dolomites. 1 piton blocked, on sight

2017  

First ascent of the north face of Brunnenkogel with Philipp Brugger

First ascent of the "Left-hand variant to the central pillar", Heiligkreuzkofel. On sight with Berni Ertl

2016  

First ascent of "Adieu Konni" with Dario Haselwarter, Geierkopf north face

First ascent "Walk the Line", north face of the Zwölferkogel, solo and on sight

Sass Rigais, development of two routes and a variant through the so-called "Kirchdach", with Philipp Prünster

New route on the north face of the Agner (left of the classic Iori)

First ascent of the north face of the Lüsener Fernerkogel, with Philipp Brugger