Simon Gietl - Vittorio Messini
Simon Gietl and Vitto Messini open new route in East Tyrol
"Alles im Kasten" is the name of the new route that Salewa athlete Simon Gietl and Vitto Messini recently opened at Mittlerer Kasten in the Hohe Tauern. The mittlere Kasten is located just below the 3,000m border in the rear Kalser Dorfertal and forms a 120-250m high, very steep gneiss wall to the south, which resembles the Bugaboos in Canada more so than it does the walls of the Hohe Tauern. In Autumn 2018, Simon and Vitto took the initiative to develop the "Alles im Kasten" route.
Simon said, "We wanted to open a new route in the Pfeilermitte, and after a whole day's work, we managed to do so.” The natural route (difficulty 9 (8 obl.)/ R3/III, 5 SL) leads up to the shoulder of the ridge with the usual safety equipment (with normal hooks, which we haven’t changed and mobile safety devices)." The first ascent of the route was named, 'Alles im Kasten'.
In June 2019 the two top climbers set off again - they wanted to climb the Rotpunkt route. Over two days, they were able to overcome the shallow cracks, slabs and overhanging intersections and complete the tour. Simon's conclusion: "The route "Alles im Kasten" is really something special and an absolute must for lovers of granite-style climbing!"
Alles im Kasten climbing route
S. Gietl and V. Messini, 22.10.2018
1. RP. S. Gietl and V. Messini, 13th and 14th June 2019
Length: 140m (5 Sl)
Difficulty: 9 (8 obl.)/R3/III
Material: all driven pitons were left, no bolts, 2 sets of cams (C3 and C4 to size 4, the latter just 1 time), nuts and 1-2 peckers
Access: from Lienz to Huben and on to Kals until the "Taurer/Spöttling" area. Park here by the big parking lot.
GPS coordinates for the parking lot: 47°01‘31.1“N 12°38’02.2“E
Approach: Follow the forest road into the Kalser Tauerntal for a few kilometres. Walking time approx. 1.5 h (with e-bike approx. 30 min). From Kalser Tauernhaus head towards Dorfersee over the bridge and follow the road on the right before the first small stream (small bridge) into the forest. The climb begins approx. 50 m slightly to the left (Attention: it is not easy to recognise at the beginning!) of the end of the road. Follow the trail to the tree line, where it then proceeds. Head for the left moraine "Sandriegel", initially walking past alpine roses, then more clearly along the rib of the moraine until you reach the gravel of the glacier forefield. Cross at the beginning of the glacier "Vorderer Kastenkees" and at the glacier, in a large right loop, walk along the terrace or path under the cliff face. Beware of the large crevasses (glacier equipment!). Walking time from the Kalser Tauernhaus is approx. 3 hrs. Return the same way. Walking time to the Kalser Tauernhaus approx. 1.5-2 hrs.
Start: Follow the path to the end, at the start of the route there is a piton with a sling.
Descent: Rappel over the route, then return the same way. Walking time to the Kalser Tauernhaus approx. 1.5-2 hrs.