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| THE WORLD’S MOST ELEVATED GIFT |
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Over 70 years ago, four climbers began the first ascent of the Eiger north wall. The anniversary presents the perfect opportunity for a special gift to the climbing world – the new route entitled “Magic Mushroom, which is 600 m long and is graded as 7c.
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THE EIGER NORTH FACE: 1,650 METERS OF TEMPTATION – FROM 1938 TO 2008
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The Eiger: 3,790m high.
A tower of limestone from the Mesozoic era.
The rock has stood for aeons – for at least 70 million years.
It is the smallest of the Eiger, Moench and Jungfrau triumvirate.
And yet it is the greatest. Its name rings out. It rings in the ears of all fanatical climbers. It makes them shiver and twitch, and yet they will always come back for more.
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Our story begins on the 11th August 1858. Charles Barrington, Christian Almer and Peter Bohren are the first people to stand on the Eiger summit. The Irish visitor and the mountain guides from Grindelwald choose the western approach, a prodigious challenge for that time.
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80 years pass. Then, four mountaineers mount their challenge of the freezing cold north face. Their battle against weather and fear begins on the 21st July 1938. Three days later the winners capture mountaineering’s most sought-after prize. Anderl Heckmair, Heinrich Harrer, Fritz Kasparek und Ludwig Vörg have finally conquered the Eiger north face. But the temptation goes on. Their silent call echoes high above Grindelwald, the neighbouring village lying way down in the valley below. 70 years later that call will be heard once again.
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“MAGIC MUSHROOM“-THE SPELL OF AN UNUSUAL GIFT
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They know the rock like the palm of their hand.
Christoph Hainz and his climbing partner Roger Schäli are members of the international SALEWA alpineXtrem team – and full blooded Eiger fans. Winter ascents, solo expeditions and reconquests of the toughest north face routes are listed in their logbooks.
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For Christoph, the Eiger north face, soaring 1,650m into the sky, is one good reason to leave his beloved Dolomites. In 1989 he did it for the first time. It was March, and the depths of a Bern winter. Eleven years later he returned to repeat the XX route known as “Symphonie de Liberté“. In 2003 the 46 year old completed a further milestone in his own, deeply personal Eiger story: a solo ascent along the classical route. Following in the footsteps of the Heckmair group, he took just four and a half hours to reach the top. In 1938 the world’s four most audacious mountaineers took four whole days to compete their climb.
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Christoph’s friend Roger Schäli also has a special relationship with the rock having grown up just a few kilometres from Grindelwald, which lies nestled in the Eiger valley. Under the Eiger spell, the Swiss mountain guide has climbed almost all the toughest north face routes including “Deep blue sea“ (IX-), “La vida es silbar“ (7c), “Piola Ghilini“ (EX-) and “Spit verdonesque“ (X).
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But the 30 year old extreme sportsman wants more and has his sights set firmly on a new route. This is to be a very special anniversary celebration for a very special rock. The new route will be 600m high – and very demanding. Plans have been made but the first glance tells a story. The rock is completely white. Slippery snow and blistering cold temperatures can quickly put an end to north face ascents at these altitudes. Yet the two climbers are more determined than ever. They are heading off - well equipped but without the extra trimmings.
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Just like the first climbers to conquer this mountain, Roger and Christoph want to do this tour in classical style from below using free climbing techniques. The mountaineering buddies will choose a path that is at least 3 grades harder than that chosen 70 years earlier by the Heckmair route.
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The mountain will welcome them with over 50cm of new snow disguising pitches of 6a to 6b+ during the first pitches. It will take great effort and rob them of their strength. To make their anniversary gift a permanent one for themselves and those who follow, Roger and Christoph will take solid bolts with them. It will take a long time. But then again, they will get some help from above. Rain will sweep the snow from the Eiger and expose the compact north face limestone rock. Then the wind will arrive. Gusts of wind will blow the rock dry like an enormous hairdryer . The conditions are excellent – but how long will this last? In the last 70 years dozens of good climbers have fallen victim to the rock and its unpredictable weather. The clock is ticking.
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Now the mountain seems to loom outwards and climbing is becoming more difficult. At the 12th pitch the first 7c awaits. It is 5°C and there is over 300m of air beneath the mountaineering boots. The higher Roger and Christoph go, the narrower the ridges become and the more energy is consumed with each step. Still, the two guys can only gaze upwards. Breathe, concentrate, make one move after another. |
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After six days of climbing the north face, they have finally reached
their goal. The climbers are standing on top of the mushroom. The
moment is sacred. Time to enjoy the “Magic Mushroom”.
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